Buenos Aires People

Recoleta 

La Biela 

A stone´s throw from Recoleta Cemetery, the terrace of this historic, Parisian Style cafe is a good bet for people watching. It´s named after the connecting rod in car engines, testimony to the fact that famous motor racing drivers hung out here in the 1950s, as are framed pictures of race cars still hanging on the walls. Nowadays, the massive rubber tree outside shelters a terrace packed to the brim with tourists and Recoleta´s most monied residents.

Avenida Quintana 596, y Ortiz (4804-0449/www.labiela.com). Bus 10, 17, 59, 60, 101, 108, 110, 124. Open 7am-2am Mon-Sat; 8am-2am Sun. Credit AmEx, V. Map E5.

Florencio

Among the exclusive buildings in an affluent and tranquil Recoleta street is a tiny patisserie with supelative pastries and cakes. Foodies will travel for miles to sink their teeth into a berry-topped cheesecake or caramelised pear tart made by occasional TV celebrity chef Maria Laura D´Aloisio. If you favour something savoury, try a sandwich in home-made ciabatta or stay for the dinner on Wednesday and Friday evenings. Adventurous bakers can try recreating Florencio´s divine desserts at home, as D´aloisio also shares recipes on her Facebook page. 
Francisco de Vittoria 2363 , entre Guido y Agote (4807-6477).
Bus 10, 37, 60, 102 , 110. Open 9am-8 pm Mon, Tue, Thur, Sat; 9pm-Midnight Wed, Fri. No credit cards. Map E5

Pani

There are no half measures taken at Pani - everything is done to the maximum. Plush, custom-made seating, velvet drapes, golden lamps, a pastry display case filled with brownies, alfajores and Cheesecakes exploding with dulce de leche and chocolate, even the bathrooms are outfitted to the max with custom graffiti art. The menu is appropriately extravagant, covering every meal of the day and creating a new one: “teanner” multiple courses of sweet and savoury - think croque monsieurs, salmon bagels, scones and cakes - made for two. Equally worth visiting is the original Pani in Palermo, which just received a full makeover.

Vicente Lopez 2056, entre Uriburu y Junin (4804 3210/www.pani.com.ar).

Bus 17, 60, 93, 110. Open 9am-1pm Fri, Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5.

Other Location Nicaragua 6044, Palermo (4772 6420).

Tea Connection 

This airy, moderm teahouse is a good place to detox from the bus fumes, ciggies and espressos that fuel the porteño engine. An extensive menu of green, black and herbal blends are served loose leaf in a generous pot to keep you satisfied all afternoon, and an accompanying timer ensures the leaves are perfectly drawn. The menu emphasizes fresh, healthy salads, wraps and juices, but there are plenty of sweet treats to satisfy the breakfast and merienda crowd.

Uriburu 1597, y Pacheco de Melo (4805 0616/www.teaconnection.com.ar). Bus 10, 37, 59, 60, 102, 110, 118, 124. Open 8am-11:30 pm daily.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5.

Other locations Montevideo 1655, Recoleta (5199 0363); Cerviño 3550, Palermo (4802 0573); Echeverria 2102, Belgrano (4784 5545).